Code
P1483
LAND ROVER
P — Powertrain
Leak heater control by evaporative emission system high circuit
Views:
UK: 12
EN: 26
RU: 22
AI status
Completed
Completed
100%
Causes
- Open or damaged wiring in EVAP leak-heater control circuit
- Short to battery/constant 12V on the control circuit
- Corroded or loose connector at the leak detection pump/heater
- Failed leak detection pump or heater element
- Blown or incorrect fuse/relay for the EVAP circuit
- Poor ground connection
Symptoms
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) / Check Engine Light illuminated
- Stored P1483 in ECU freeze frame and readiness monitors may be incomplete
- Possible EVAP system fault messages or failed emissions test
- Fuel smell near EVAP canister or fuel tank (occasionally)
- Evaporative system leak tests may fail or not complete
What to check
- Retrieve freeze frame data and pending/related EVAP codes with a compatible scan tool
- Visual inspection of EVAP pump/heater harness, connectors and grounds for corrosion, damage, pin push-out, or melting
- Check fuses and relays for the EVAP/leak pump circuit
- Use a scan tool to command the leak detection pump/heater ON and observe status
- Backprobe connector at pump: check supply voltage, control signal and ground with key ON and while commanding the pump
- Measure resistance of heater element/pump (with disconnected connector) and compare to expected value
Signal parameters
- Battery supply voltage to EVAP circuit: ~11–14.5 V (key ON)
- Control/driver circuit: may be high (near battery voltage) when off and pulled low or switched on by the ECU when commanded—observe with a scan tool
- When commanded ON, control output may be steady or PWM; expect a change from the inactive state
- Typical heater/pump current draw: low amperage but can vary by model (commonly under 5 A) — compare to workshop spec
- Approximate heater resistance (typical range): ~2–30 ohms (manufacturer spec required for exact value)
Diagnostic algorithm
- Confirm code P1483 and note freeze frame/related codes. Do not clear codes until initial checks are complete.
- Perform a detailed visual inspection of EVAP pump/heater, harness, connectors, fuse(s) and grounds. Repair any obvious damage or corrosion.
- Check relevant fuse(s) and relays; replace if faulty. Verify proper fuse rating.
- With connector disconnected, measure heater element resistance and compare to factory spec. Replace pump if open/short or out of spec.
- Backprobe pump connector with key ON and while commanding pump ON via scan tool: verify presence of battery feed and correct switching behaviour on control wire (voltage should change when commanded).
- If control wire shows battery voltage when it should be switched low (high circuit), trace wiring back for a short to battery or stuck high feed. Repair damaged wiring/shorts.
- If wiring and pump check good, verify ground integrity at chassis and ECU. Clean/repair grounds as needed.
- If all wiring, connectors, fuse and pump check good but control output stays incorrect, test or replace the ECU/PCM driver only after confirming all external faults removed.
- Clear codes and perform drive/EVAP test to confirm repair; monitor for reoccurrence.
Likely causes
- Open or damaged wiring/connector at leak detection pump
- Short to battery (high voltage) on the heater control circuit
- Failed leak detection pump/heater element drawing abnormal voltage/current
- Blown fuse or failed relay supplying the EVAP circuit
- Poor ground at pump or ECU connector
- Less likely: defective ECU driver output
Fault status
Status
Evaporative emission leak-heater control circuit reported high voltage/incorrect signal. Inspect EVAP leak pump/heater, wiring, connectors, fuse/relay and control ground. Repair wiring or component and clear codes.
Repair difficulty: Medium
Diagnostic time: 1.0-2.5 hours
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