Code
B1625
Other
B — Body
Lamp Keypad Output Short Circuit To Battery
Views:
UK: 26
EN: 43
RU: 23
AI status
Completed
Completed
100%
Causes
- Damaged wiring harness (chafing, pinched conductor) contacting constant battery power
- Shorted connector or terminal condition (corrosion, bent pin contacting power circuit)
- Internal short in keypad/lamp assembly or module output stage
- Incorrect aftermarket accessory or repair wiring tied to the circuit
- Failed relay or fused junction feeding constant battery to the output
Symptoms
- Keypad illumination does not turn off or is always on
- Loss of keypad control or unresponsive keypad backlighting
- Blown fuse for lighting/cabin circuits
- Battery drain with ignition off (parasitic draw)
- Dimming or flickering of other interior lamps when operated
What to check
- Scan for additional related DTCs and freeze frame data
- Visual inspection of keypad, connectors, and harness for damage, corrosion, or exposed conductors
- Check fuse(s) for the keypad/lamp circuit and note if repeatedly blown
- Measure voltage at keypad lamp output with connector connected and disconnected
- Inspect for aftermarket devices or recent repairs near the keypad harness
Signal parameters
- Expected idle (OFF) output: near 0 V or open-circuit (module low-side or switched supply design may vary)
- Expected ON output: approximately battery voltage (11.5–14.5 V) when lamp is commanded on
- Short-to-battery symptom: ~12 V present at the output even when module commands OFF
- Typical lamp circuit current: usually small (tens to hundreds of milliamps); a hard short will show higher current and may blow a fuse
- Continuity: normal circuit should not have direct continuity to battery positive when output is OFF (infinite/high resistance); short shows low resistance (~0–5 Ω) to battery positive
Diagnostic algorithm
- Retrieve freeze frame and any related codes; record conditions when DTC set.
- Perform a visual inspection: remove relevant trim, inspect keypad connector and harness for chafing, pin damage, corrosion, or signs of heat.
- With ignition off, disconnect keypad connector. Check for continuity between the keypad output pin and battery positive. Low resistance indicates short to battery.
- With ignition on, command keypad lamp OFF using vehicle controls and measure voltage at the module output pin relative to ground. Battery voltage present while commanded OFF confirms short to battery.
- Back-probe harness along the routing to find where circuit becomes hot: disconnect intermediate connectors one at a time to isolate section causing the short.
- If short is isolated to the keypad assembly, bench-test or replace the keypad/lamp module. If in wiring, repair or replace damaged section: repair with correct gauge wire, proper insulation, and sealed connectors.
- After repairs, clear codes and perform functional test cycles; monitor for reappearance and check for parasitic draw if battery drain was a symptom.
- If fault persists and wiring checks OK, consider replacing or programming the controlling module as specified by manufacturer procedures.
Likely causes
- Pinched lamp keypad wire rubbing against a nearby constant 12V feed
- Terminal in keypad connector pushed out and contacting adjacent battery-fed pin
- Keypad lamp element or PCB internal short to supply rail
- Previous repair where a harness splice was tied to battery power instead of the switched feed
Fault status
Status
Lamp keypad output circuit detected short to battery: control module senses battery voltage on the output when it should be switchable. May cause lamp always-on, blown fuses, or battery drain. Inspect wiring, connectors, and keypad module.
Repair difficulty: Medium
Diagnostic time: 0.5-2.0 hours
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